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I am disturbingly often engaged in heated debate with my head chef at Bocca di Lupo – another Jake – over the relative merits of panettone, pandoro & Colomba. My preference is for pandoro, simple and elegant, but Jake swears by Colomba – the same dough as panettone - shaped (if you’re being generous) into the form of a dove, flavoured solely with candied orange and almonds, and the top coated in thick sugar crust. In the North of Italy, it graces every table at Easter, and in the days before and after. We get ours from Forno Gentile, and it is superlative.